As summer begins to slowly fade and the heat begins to dissipate, the Southwestern garden comes alive with second spring.
In the absence of scorching 100+ degree temperatures, both plants and people reawaken to the vibrant beauty of the desert landscape during the fall season.
The Allure of Autumn is “Second Spring”
When people talk about their favorite season, many will tell you that spring is the time that they enjoy the most as their gardens come alive, spring forth with new green growth and colorful blooms. But in the desert Southwest, there’s another season that deserves just as much acclaim – fall, often referred to as the “second spring.”
Sky Flower (Duranta erecta)
While spring is a glorious time in the desert landscape with winter blooms overlapping with spring flowering plants along with cactus flowers – it isn’t the only ‘spring’ that the desert experiences.
A Season of Renewal
Fall in the desert brings a rejuvenating touch. The cooler temperatures breathe new life into plants, coaxing them into refreshed appearances and prolonging their flowering displays. Irrigation becomes less of a chore. Birds, butterflies, and various wildlife also make a prominent return during the daytime hours.
The Great Outdoors Beckons
With the arrival of fall, desert residents find themselves irresistibly drawn outdoors. Whether it’s leisurely walks, al fresco dining, or simply working outdoors, the comfortable temperatures and captivating landscapes make every moment spent outside a delight.
Fall is the ideal season for making alterations to your garden. It’s the perfect time to replace thirsty, old plants with drought-tolerant alternatives or expand your outdoor living space by adding new features like patios or pergolas.
Flame Acanthus (Anisacanthus quadrifidus v. wrightii)
Second Spring Planting for the Future
Regardless of your garden’s location, fall stands as the prime season for introducing new plants to your landscape. With three growing seasons ahead, it offers them the opportunity to establish robust root systems before the next scorching summer arrives.
No matter what garden region you live in – second spring is the best time of year to add new plants to the landscape as it provides plants with three seasons in which to grow a good root system before the heat of the next summer arrives.
**Thinking of making some changes to your landscape? Click herefor a list my favorite drought tolerant plants that provide fall blooms.
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A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to take another photo of a landscape I passed by in a neighborhood where I had just finished up a landscape consultation. I was shocked at the mushroom shaped shrubs.
The Pitfalls of Shrub Pruning Mistakes
Sadly, I often see examples of truly ‘interesting’ or should I say ‘bad’ pruning. I drove by this landscape and then made a U-turn so that I could take a quick photo…
Shrub pruning
I don’t know about you, but these Texas sage shrubs look like mushrooms, don’t you think?
Sadly, pruning these beautiful flowering shrubs this way robs them of their flowers, increases maintenance, creates dead wood, and shortens their life.
Misguided Pruning in Strange Shapes
While there are quite a few shrubs that take well to repeated formal pruning – doing this to flowering shrubs should be avoided.
I must admit that I have seen Texas sage and other flowering shrubs pruned into many different shapes…
But, let me be frank – shrubs aren’t meant to be cupcakes, frisbees, or gumdrops
Why You Should Avoid Improper Shrub Pruning
Here are just a few reasons why…
1. Energy Deprivation
It removes the leaves needed for the shrub to make energy for itself
2. Increased Growth and Maintenance
Excessive pruning actually makes your shrubs grow faster, which equals MORE maintenance
3. Water Demands
Shrubs pruned often require more water as they constantly work to replace foliage lost
4. Shortened Lifespan
Continued shearing will shorten the lifespan of your shrubs
5. Aesthetic Impact
Green ‘blobs’ are ugly compared to beautiful flowering shrubs
Join Our Online Shrub Pruning Workshop
If you are tired of the time and money it takes to maintain flowering shrubs the ‘wrong’ way. I invite you to join me in my online shrub pruning workshopwhere I will teach you the right way to prune.
Imagine your outdoor space filled with beautiful, flowering shrubs instead of green ‘balls’. Believe it or not, the shrubs in the photo above are the SAME plant – they have just been maintained differently. The one on the left takes much more money and time and the other thrives with pruning once (or twice) a year.
In my online class, I show you how to work with your landscaper or how you can take care of your shrubs yourself. Got ‘green balls’ already in your landscape? I’ll teach you how to rejuvenate them and the best time of year to do it.
So, ditch the ‘green blobs’ in your yard and learn how to prune with confidence – it’s much easier than you think. Learn morehere and what students have to say about the class.
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Exploring the Beauty of the Desert Museum Palo Verde
‘Desert Museum’ Palo Verde Trees
The Desert Museum Palo Verde (Parkinsonia ‘Desert Museum’), a beloved tree in arid climates, graces numerous residential, commercial, and community landscapes. Its striking medium-green trunk, feathery foliage, and golden late spring flowers contribute to its widespread popularity. While wind damage can be a concern, proper care and selection can ensure these trees thrive.
Fallen ‘Desert Museum’ Palo Verde trees after a monsoon storm
These wonderful trees stand as a captivating addition to arid landscapes. Its medium-green trunk, delicate foliage, and vibrant late-spring blooms make it a cherished choice for many. However, understanding and addressing potential wind damage is crucial for their successful growth.
Understanding Wind Damage Concerns
One common hesitation in planting palo verde trees is their perceived susceptibility to wind damage. However, most issues arise from improper maintenance, unsuitable locations, or the selection of the wrong tree type within the Palo Verde family.
Desert Museum Palo Verde tree in my backyard
Personal Success with Desert Museum Palo Verde
I have three of these Palo Verdes around my house. They range in age from 10 to 20 years old. In all that time, I have not lost a single one. While minor branch breakage occurred at times, these resilient trees quickly recovered, showcasing the hardiness of this species.
So, how can you enjoy the beauty of this tree while lessening the danger of wind damage? As a retired certified arborist, I’m here to tell you that there are definitely things you can do.
5 Strategies for Structurally Healthy ‘Desert Museum’ Palo Verdes Trees
1. Water deeply to a depth of 3 feet.
Deep roots are key to the stability of a tree and also decrease the chance of uplifting roots. Apply water toward the outer reaches of the branches where the roots are concentrated. As a tree grows, its roots move outward, so move your drip emitters or hose as needed.
Be sure to plant in an area where there is adequate area for root growth. Parking lot islands and narrow areas don’t allow enough room for roots to anchor the tree.
‘Desert Museum’ palo verde that has grown too rapidly due to excess irrigation
2. Irrigate less frequently to avoid your tree growing too fast.
This is a big cause of wind damage with palo verde trees. It’s important to remember that they are desert trees and don’t need as much water as other plants in the landscape. But, people often overwater their desert trees, which causes them to grow too quickly. This causes the formation of weak wood because they haven’t had the time to grow strong trunks and branches. In the photo above, notice how thin the multiple trunks are.
Established native desert trees, that have been in the ground for at least 3 years, can follow these general guidelines – water 1 to 2X a month in spring/fall, 2 to 3X a month in summer, and monthly in winter. These guidelines are for our current drought situation but can be modified as needed.
Trees that have been pruned up too high (lion-tailing)
3. Prune your tree correctly.
There are examples of awful pruning. One common one is known as ‘lion-tailing’ which is when trees have been over-pruned so the majority of the tree is devoid of branches except for the very top. This pruning deprives the branches of foliage needed to produce energy for the tree and to increase tree strength. It also increases the amount of overhanging branches toward the top making the tree more likely to fall.
Many landscapers don’t know the right way to prune trees and can inadvertently cause harm to your tree. I highly recommend enlisting the services of a certified arborist to prune your tree correctly.
4. Select a multi-trunk form of Palo Verde instead of one growing on a single trunk.
Desert trees naturally in a multiple trunk form, which distributes the weight of the upper branches. Palo Verde trees that have been trained to grow on a single trunk, are under more stress from the wind with their heavy top half. The majority that you see fallen have been trained into a single-trunk tree.
This tree needs pruning before the monsoon season to lessen the weight of the canopy
5. ‘Desert Museum’ Palo Verde trees generally need pruning at least once (sometimes twice) a year.
You want to be sure to prune them before the onset of monsoon season – removing any heavyweight or branches that are weakly attached.
Newly-pruned ‘Desert Museum’ palo verde tree ready for the monsoon season
Ensuring the Future of Your Desert Museum Palo Verde
Desert Museum Palo Verde trees are a valuable asset to desert gardens, offering beauty and shade. By following these tips, you can safeguard your tree’s health and stability for years to come. Join me in celebrating the enduring allure of these magnificent desert trees.
Want to learn more about this and other Palo Verde tree species? Check out my previous blog post here.
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Have you ever had a sunburn? Maybe a better question is, “Who hasn’t?”
Well, did you know that many plants get too much as well?
Sunburned Citrus: A Common Concern
On a recent visit to a client who was worried about her newly planted citrus trees.
Sunburned Citrus
The Leaf Yellowing Dilemma on Citrus Trees
This particular client has a large courtyard with several new citrus trees in pots. Her citrus trees, planted in spring, showed yellowing as summer progressed.
Now yellow leaves can indicate a number of different problems. In this case, the diagnosis was rather simple – her citrus tree has a case of sunburn.
Common Signs of Sunburned Citrus and Other Plants
– The areas of the leaf that are yellow are in the center and NOT along the tips or edges.
– Often, the yellow areas begin to turn brown.
– Signs normally occur in the summer months.
– The sunburned leaves are usually located on the south and west-facing parts of the plant.
– This particular citrus tree is in an area that receives reflected, afternoon sun.
How to Prevent Sunburned Citrus
In this case, the solution is simple. Move the citrus tree to another part of the courtyard that receives afternoon shade is all that is needed to prevent further sunburn damage. Another choice is to put 50% shade cloth on from mid-May through September.
Citrus do best when planted at least 10 – 15 ft. away from walls. Unfortunately walls absorb the heat of the day and re-radiate it out.
Avoid planting where they get the full force of afternoon sun.
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When people think about what a desert garden looks like, what comes to mind? Perhaps, visions of lots of brown with rocks and a cactus or two? Maybe visions of mostly brown terrain with scattered rocks and a couple of cacti? But in reality, the possibilities for colorful plants for the desert garden are far greater. Picture a vibrant landscape adorned with the entire spectrum of colors – from varying hues of red, orange, and purple to shades of pink and yellow.
I’m excited to introduce you to eight vividly colorful plants flourishing within my desert garden. All are vibrantly colorful and thrive in a hot, dry climate:
Colorful Plants for the Desert Garden
The Best List of Colorful Plants for the Desert Garden
Bougainvillea – Bougainvillea ‘Barbara Karst’
You can’t beat Bougainvillea for the vibrant color in the garden. It thrives in our dry, hot climate and flowers off and on spring through fall. Record-breaking heat doesn’t bother it in the least. Its resilience makes it a prime candidate for covering walls and facing challenging western exposures. For maximum flowering, they need to be in full sun. For those that don’t like the messy flowers, you can opt for dwarf varieties or plant one in a large pot, which will limit its size.
Hardy to 20 degrees F. Plant in full sun for optimal flowering.
Coral Fountain – Russelia equisetiformis
Often referred to as Firecracker Bush, this resilient plant is a colorful plant for a desert garden. It is a tropical beauty has a lovely cascading growth habit. Arching stems produce orange/red tubular flowers that delight hummingbirds. Blooming occurs spring through fall. This shrub takes a year or two before really taking off, but it’s worth the wait – I like to use them in groups of 3 to 5. It is also a good choice for adding to large containers – especially blue ones!
Cold hardy to 10 degrees F. Plant in full sun.
Firecracker Penstemon – Penstemon eatoni
Winter color is often lacking in desert gardens. However, there are many colorful plants for a desert garden that offer color through winter. This western native is my favorite during winter and spring in my front garden when it burst forth with brilliant orange/red blooms. Hummingbirds really enjoy the blooms as there aren’t many other plants for them to feed on this time of year. Prune off spent flowering stalks once the flowers begin to drop and you may get another flush of blooms to extend the season. It can be hard to find Firecracker Penstemon in box stores but local nurseries usually carry them.
Hardy to -20 degrees F. Plant in full sun.
Yellow Bells – Tecoma stans var. stans
Admittedly, there are many yellow-flowering plants in the desert, but this one is my favorite! I look forward to the gorgeous yellow blooms opening each spring in my back garden. Yellow bells bloom spring through fall,and hummingbirds are attracted to their flowers. They are fast growers and have lovely, lush green foliage. To keep them looking their best, prune them back severely to 1-2 feet tall once the threat of frost has passed in spring. There are several notable varieties of Yellow Bells in shades of orange including ‘Crimson Flare’ and ‘Sparky’.
Hardy to 10 degrees F. Plant in full sun to filtered sun.
Shrubby Germander – Teucrium fruticans ‘Azurea’
Photos don’t do this Mediterranean native justice. When viewed in person, people are immediately transfixed by the light-blue flowers (they appear more purple in photos), which appear in spring. I have several scattered throughout my back garden, and for me, they bloom throughout winter too! Using plants with silver-gray foliage near those with darker green leaves is a great way to add interest to the landscape, even when not in flower. I dearly love this shrub for its colorful winter/spring blooms in my desert garden.
Hardy to 10 degrees F. Plant in filtered sun.
Purple Lilac Vine – Hardenbergia violaceae
Here is another winter-flowering beauty. Purple flowers cover this vine from February into early March. Believe me when I say that they are a welcome relief to the winter blahs. Bees enjoy the blooms, which resemble lilacs but aren’t fragrant. It does require a trellis or other support to grow up on. When not in bloom, its attractive foliage adds a welcome splash of green throughout the year on vertical surfaces. The Purple Lilac vine is a very colorful plant for a desert garden and can be found in nurseries in fall and winter, during its flowering season.
Hardy to 20-25 degrees F. Plant in full to the filtered sun but avoid west-facing exposures.
If you love the color purple, you’ll want to include this variety of Texas Sage in your garden. Branches covered in masses of purple flowers appear off and on spring through fall, often in response to periods of increased humidity. The more humidity, the more flowers produced. There are many different types of Texas Sage and all add color to the desert garden. Now, you may not see them looking like this for the sad fact that many people prune them into unnatural shapes like balls, cupcakes, and even squares. Which would you rather have – a green ‘blob’ or a gorgeous purple beauty like this?
Hardy to 10 degrees F. Plant in full sun for maximum flowering.
Desert Willow – Chilopsis linearis
I want to include a tree in our list of colorful plants for the desert garden. Desert Willow is small to medium-sized tree that are native to the Southwest. Throughout the warm season, branches with bright green leaves are covered with pink blooms. The flowers add a lovely shade of pink, which is a color not always seen in the desert. There are many newer varieties of Desert Willow – I have four different ones in my garden, but ‘Bubba’ is my favorite. This is a deciduous tree and will lose its leaves in winter.
Hardy to -10 degrees. Plant in full sun.
SO, where can you find these plants?
Where to Buy Colorful Plants for the Desert Garden
I am often asked where is the best place to buy plants. Yes, you can head to your big box store, but they usually lack variety and are known to sell plants that don’t do well in our hot, dry climate.
My advice is to look to your local garden center and nursery for these and other plants for your garden.
This is a Fantastic Desert Nursery
I’d like to share with you about a new nursery that is mixing things up in a good way! Four Arrows Garden is a family business, located in Vail, AZ, where you order your plants online and they deliver them to you!
The Chavez family began their business with cuttings from succulents in their backyard that soon grew to people wanting them to offer other types of plants. She explains their unique nursery, “Our business model has changed over the year to fill the need in our community. We have transformed into “not your average nursery” because of a niche market to deliver landscape plants and creating an online shopping outlet for desert-adapted plants. We are different because we allow customers to shop for plants from the comfort of their homes.”
This Nursery Has Special Desert Plants
They source their plants from wholesale growers in the Phoenix and Tucson area. While their delivery area is primarily in the greater Tucson area, They can accept special requests from Phoenix area customers.
I encourage you to incorporate colorful plants within your desert garden to improve your curb appeal and your enjoyment of your outdoor space. Local nurseries are the best sources for these plants. If you are in the Tucson area, visit Four Arrows Garden’s online nursery to make your special order and they will deliver it to your door. Check them out on Facebook where Linsay keeps you updated on the latest plants available!
*Disclosure: This post has been sponsored by Four Arrows Garden. My opinions and advice are my own.
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Summers in the desert garden is hot. That’s no surprise. However, there are periods within these hot months when temperatures climb higher than normal. Because of this, we do need to help protect our gardens from the effects of a heatwave.
So, what is considered a heatwave in the low to mid-altitude desert? As a rule, when the mercury edges above 110 degrees F. During a heatwave, they can even go close to 120 degrees – ouch!
Thankfully, there are things you can do to help prepare the plants within your garden right now.
Here is my #1 tip…
Water your plants deeply the night before three – four day span of 110+ degree are forecast. This is in addition to your regular drip irrigation schedule.
The goal of this supplemental irrigation is to water deeply. This allow the soil to stay moister for longer, which will benefit your plants.
Under normal circumstances, I water my plants for 1 1/2 hours. However, in preparation of a heatwave, I water 2-3 hours. Plants will need more water in order to deal with the extreme temps and the extra water that will be lost to the atmosphere through their leaves.
Don’t do this every night, only every 4 days or so during a heatwave.
My second piece of advice…
Provide temporary shade for young plants in your landscape as they are more susceptible to stress from a heatwave.
This is because they don’t have a well-established root system to uptake much water and sparser foliage, so there aren’t many leaves to shade other parts of the plant.
Shade cloth is useful for protection lasting over several months. But for short-term shade during a heatwave, you can use burlap, sheets, an umbrella, or even place a patio chair over a susceptible plant. Uncover plants once temperatures are within the normal range.
Hot temperatures are a fact of life during the desert summer as are heatwaves. But, implementing one, or both, of these tips will help the plants in your garden.
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Many of us are familiar with how over-pruning can take away much of the beauty of flowering shrubs and contribute to their early death.
But, have you ever wondered what they look like on the inside?
I found this ‘ugly’ example alongside the drive-thru of Taco Bell.
Over Pruned Shrubs
It isn’t pretty, is it?
The side of the ‘Green Cloud’ Texas Sage was sheared away because it was growing over the curb.
The result of planting the shrub too close, OR the wrong plant in the bad space.
You can see the thin layer of leaves that cover the shrub and the dark, interior where sunlight seldom reaches.
This isn’t healthy for your shrubs, shortens their lifespan, and increases the amount of water they require.
If this resembles your shrub(s), the good news is that you can often fix them.
Imagine going from the shrub on the left to the one on the right.
It is possible and often a specific type of pruning known as ‘rejuvenation pruning’ is the way to do this.
In my online shrub pruning workshop, I love teaching my students how to rejuvenate their over-pruned shrubs.
It’s important to note that not all shrubs respond to rejuvenation pruning, but Cassia (Senna species), Sage (Leucophyllum species), Ruellia, Fairy Duster (Calliandra species), and Lantana shrubs respond well as long as they aren’t too old and healthy.
I encourage you to declare your landscape free of shrubs pruned into balls, cupcakes, and squares and transform it into one filled with beauty 🙂
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You would think that the beauty of these shrubs, in flower, would be enough for people to stop pruning them into absurd shapes, but sadly, this is not the case. In the Desert Southwest, there is an epidemic of truly horrible pruning that affects not only Texas Sage (Leucophyllum species), but also Cassia (Senna species), Fairy Duster (Calliandra species),and even Oleander.
The Consequences of Excessive Pruning
Unsurprisingly, excessive pruning like this is NOT healthy for shrubs and it strips them of their beauty.
The ‘Frisbee’ Phenomenon
You don’t have to go far to see these sad shrubs. All you need to do is drive down the street as I did…
Okay, it should be rather obvious, but I will say it just the same,
“Do not prune your shrubs into the shape of a ‘frisbee’.
The ‘Pillbox’ Pruning
I kept driving and found even more examples of truly awful pruning. Sadly, all are within a 5-minute drive of my house.
I call this ‘pillbox’ pruning.
These Texas Sage & Cassia shrubs were located across the street from the ‘frisbee’ shrubs.
An attempt at creating a ‘sculpture’?
Texas Sage ‘Green Cloud’ (Leucophyllum frutescens ‘Green Cloud’)
A second attempt at creating a sculpture?
Let’s get real. Shrubs pruned this way does nothing to add beauty to the landscape. And, when pruned this way, they cost more, take more time, and use more water – it’s true!
‘Cupcake’ Pruning: An Unappetizing Approach
Now on to some of my favorite ‘cupcake’ examples:
An entire line of ‘cupcakes’.
‘White Cloud’ Texas Sage (Leucophyllum frutescens ‘White Cloud’)
Do you think they use a ‘level’ to make the tops perfectly flat?
I honestly wouldn’t put it past them.
You can see the dead area on the top, which is caused from this shrub being sheared repeatedly.
This dead growth is caused by lack of sunlight. Repeated shearing (hedge-trimming) keeps sunlight from reaching the interior of the shrub.
As a result, branches begin to die.
After driving around for a while, I drove toward home when I saw the saddest ones of all…
Flowering Shrubs Need Pruning, but these are Disappointing
Now if you look closely, you can see a light layer of gray-green leaves, which really don’t begin to cover the ugly, dense branching that has been caused by years of repeated shearing.
I actually like topiary, but not when done to a Texas Sage.
Some people prune up their shrubs so that they can clean up the leaves underneath more easily.
The Goal Should be to Prune with Purpose
Now, I am not against formal pruning, when performed on the right plants. But, it is not attractive when done on flowering, desert plants and it is also unhealthy for the shrubs themselves and contributes to their early death in many cases. Add to that the fact that it greatly increases your maintenance costs due to repeated pruning and having to replace them more frequently.
Now if you have shrubs that look like any of these pruning disasters, don’t panic! They can be fixed in most cases.
Now, why would anyone want to remove the flower buds from your shrubs by shearing,
when you can have flowers like this?
Join the ‘Cupcake-Free’ Movement
If you are tired of unnaturally shaped shrubs in your landscape, I understand. Believe it or not, most flowering shrubs need pruning once or twice a year at most – and NOT the type of pruning into weird shapes. I find it ironic that your yard will look better when you do less.
So, if you are wanting to declare your landscape a ‘cupcake-free’ zone, I have something I think you’re gonna love. I invite you to check out my popular online shrub pruning workshop where I teach you how to maintain flowering shrubs by pruning twice a year or less. Hundreds of students have taken the course and are reaping the rewards of a beautiful outdoor space filled with colorful shrubs at a fraction of the work.
Are you ready to break out of the cycle of green blobs?
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Let’s face it. Hot summers are not surprising to desert dwellers. In fact, a typical desert garden with native and desert-adapted plants will weather intense heat with little fuss.
However, this summer has been one for the books and I’ve seen signs of heat-stress that I’ve never seen before. And yes, within my own garden.
Heat-stressed Rock Penstemon and Golden Barrel Cactus
I must admit that it’s been hard to see certain plants struggling in my desert garden and I know you may have similar feelings. So, why has this summer been so much more difficult than others?
Pink Trumpet Vine partially defoliated due to the heat
While it is normal to have several days above 110 degrees F., the summer of 2020 is one for the record books. We have experienced not just a couple of stretches of above-normal temps but, several long spans of infernal heat. Damage to plants is often cumulative. This means that the more days of above-average (or below-average) temperatures – the higher incidence of reaction from plants.
Take a walk outside in your garden. You will likely notice some plants that are yellowing, wilting, or have given up and died. However, you may also note that there are some that are doing well.
Why is that? Let me show you some examples from my own garden – the good AND the ugly.
Let’s start with the ugly:
New Mexican Fence Post cactus transplants
In March, much of my backyard was renovated. This included the addition of two separate plantings of Mexican Fence Post cacti. They are located along my back wall and as you can see, one is doing very well while the other makes me cringe when I see the yellowing.
Does the yellowing cactus need more or less water? No. Many succulents yellow in response to summer heat. Of course, this very hot summer has made it more severe. So, why the difference between the two?
The one on the left gets filtered shade in the afternoon from a nearby Palo Verde tree. You can tell that the one on the right doesn’t get any shade but full afternoon sun. In a normal summer, it would be normal to see some yellowing that will return to green once temperatures cool. I am hopeful that will happen. As plants age, they tend to handle heat stress better and as these are young, the stress was especially severe.
Signs of heat stress
In another area of my garden, I have Green Desert Spoon and Hardy Spineless Prickly Pear, which are very heat-adapted. Yet, they do show signs of mild heat-stress that I haven’t seen before. But, they will green back up in fall. Other plants that are struggling include Artichoke Agave, Gopher Plant, and Shrubby Germander.
I am thrilled that my young Desert Willow tree in this photo is thriving despite the heat. I have four others scattered throughout my landscape and all are doing just as well.
Here are some of the good:
Young Baja Ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis) doing very well. The neighbor’s Dwarf Myrtle isn’t.
‘Sparky’ Tecoma shrub (Tecoma ‘Sparky’)
Pink Muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris). Will soon burst forth in burgundy plumes in fall.
Gold Lantana in full sun all day
Feathery Cassia, Purple Trailing Lantana, and Yellow Bell shrubs are also doing well.
Here are a couple of exceptional performers that get full, reflected sun:
‘Rio Bravo’ Texas Sage
Bougainvillea
There are still six weeks of summer heat ahead of us. So, what should we do for now?
Be sure plants are receiving enough water. You may need to increase the frequency when temps are above 110 degrees.
Don’t fertilize. Feeding plants simply makes them work harder to produce new growth when all they are trying to do is deal with the heat.
Don’t prune away heat-damaged growth until September. While brown leaves are ugly, they are protecting the interior of the plant. Some pruning is recommended in mid-September, which I teach in my Shrub Pruning Workshop.
We don’t know if this summer will be an anomaly or the beginning of a new normal. But, instead of throwing in the towel, I invite you to do the following instead:
Take a stroll through your garden and take note of which plants are doing well and those that aren’t. If this is to be the new norm, it would be a good idea to add more of those that handle the heat well.
I am not going to make any major changes in my own garden. Most of my plants have done just fine in past summers. I’ll replace the few plants that died but am hopeful that next summer will be one with average temperatures. If not, then I know what plants have withstood the heat best.
Before we know it, fall will be here, and I for one, can’t wait!
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/desert-garden-summer.jpg480640arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2020-08-19 20:44:582020-12-13 04:09:06Lessons From a Heat-Stressed Desert Garden
Photo: Roses Feeling The Heat , My Abraham Darby shrub rose and my little dog, Tobey.
Challenges of Hot Arid Climates for Roses
If you live in a hot arid climate, chances are that your roses are feeling the heat and aren’t looking their best right now. While gardeners in cooler climates celebrate summer with beautiful rose blooms, the opposite is true for those of us who live in the desert.
Surprisingly, roses actually grow quite well in hot, southwestern zones, and even though mine look somewhat sunburned – I’m not worried because this is normal. Understanding proper irrigation makes a big difference, but roses feeling heat will still have concerns.
Effects of Roses Feeling Heat with Intense Sun and Warmth
You see, roses that are grown in the low desert regions, don’t like the intense sun and heat that summer brings. As a result, the flowers become smaller, and the petals burn in the sun and turn crispy. By July, you are unlikely to see any new roses appearing until Fall.
Impact on Rose Plant Leaves
The rose blooms aren’t the only parts of the roses feeling heat concerns in summer – the leaves can become sunburn.
The sight of brown crispy petals and leaves may make you want to prune them away, but don’t.
Why?
Avoiding Premature Pruning
Pruning will stimulate new growth that will be even more susceptible to sunburn damage. Second, the older branches and leaves will help to shade the growth underneath the sun.
Strategic Pruning Schedule will Help Roses Feeling Heat
I know that it is very hard not to prune away the brown leaves – I feel you. However, in September, pull out your pruning shears and prune back your rose bushes by 1/3. This removes the sun-damaged flowers and leaves and stimulates new growth.
Comparative Benefits of Hot Arid Climates
If you lament the less-than-stellar appearance of your summer roses feeling heat, and think it’s easier to grow roses in other climates, you would be wrong.
Oh, certainly, we have to deal with our roses not looking great in the summer. But, compare that with gardeners in other regions who have to deal with the dreaded Japanese beetle that shows up every summer and eats their roses. Or, people who live in more humid climates and are having to deal with severe cases of blackspot or powdery mildew (white spots on the leaves).
Blessing of Dual Bloom Seasons in the Southwest
Lastly – we are fortunate to enjoy two separate bloom seasons for our roses. In fall, when many other gardeners are putting their roses to bed for the winter, ours are getting ready to bloom a second time that year.
And so, I will ignore my less than beautiful roses this summer, because I know that they will look fantastic this fall It is that simple 🙂
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/IMG_1702.jpg480640arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2020-07-01 07:00:002023-08-31 12:49:56Are Your Roses Feeling The Heat?
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