Before you lament a fall season devoid of colorful fall foliage in the arid West and Southwest regions of the U.S., here are some favorite water-wise shrubs and trees that will add glorious color in varying shades of orange, red, and burgundy to your arid autumn landscape.
we enjoyed on a trip to Williamsburg, VA several years ago.
Have you ever traveled somewhere else to find colorful fall foliage? What if you could have fall color in your own landscape?
A Splash of Fall Foliage Color in the Arid Desert
Like most water-wise plants, the following do best in well-drained soil. The watering guidelines given are approximate and may need to be adjusted in response to variables such as sun exposure, soil, and climate. In general, drought-tolerant plants do best when the soil is watered deeply and then allowed to dry out before the next watering. Plant in fall or wait until spring, and enjoy fall color for years to come.
Pink Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris)
Autumn Pink
In spring and summer, this ornamental grass provides an attractive backdrop with its graceful green foliage. As temperatures begin to fall and days begin to shorten, burgundy-pink plumes softly wave above the green blades, and pink muhly grass takes center stage in the garden. Its color slowly fades to a lovely wheat color in winter. Plant it in groups of three, five, or seven for the greatest effect.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to 0 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 18 degrees Celsius (USDA zones 7 to 9; find your zone)
Water requirement: Low to moderate; can survive on little water, but flowering is improved with regular summer irrigation. Water every 10 to 14 days in summer, every two weeks in spring through fall, and monthly in winter for the best flowering.
Light requirement: Full, reflected sun to filtered shade
Mature size: 3 feet tall and wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil in full sun or filtered shade; cut back to the ground in late winter; apply a slow-release fertilizer in spring.
‘Sticks on Fire’ Milk Bush (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’)
Unexpected Bursts of Orange
Orange splashes of color come from an unexpected source with this drought-tolerant succulent. ‘Sticks on Fire’ differs from the green-colored parent plant in that it is smaller and new growth has a bright orange color. The color fades to yellow and then green in summer only to turn orange again when temperatures cool. In cooler climates it can be grown in a container and brought indoors when temperatures dip below freezing. Milk bush can easily be propagated from cuttings. Be sure to wear gloves when handling this plant, as its milky sap can irritate skin and eyes.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to 30 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 1 degree Celsius (zones 9 to 11)
Water requirement: Low; water every three weeks spring through fall and monthly in winter. In the low desert, water twice a month spring through fall.
Light requirement: Full sun to filtered shade (full sun is needed for it to develop the orange color)
Mature size: 4 to 8 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil in full sun.
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
A Burst of Fall Foliage
Chinese pistache is for those who are looking for a tree that produces colorful fall foliage and will thrive in dry, arid climates. It is widely grown throughout the Northwest and the southern half of the United States, and is a go-to tree for reliable autumn color in the Southwest. In fall, bright green leaves give way to shades of yellow followed by orange and red, providing much-desired fall color for the drought-tolerant garden. Female trees produce berries that attract birds. This tree isn’t fussy about soil, as long as it’s well-drained, but it does need room to grow to its full size.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 23 degrees Celsius (zones 6 to 9)
Water requirement: Low to moderate; water to 3 feet every 10 to 14 days in summer, every three weeks in spring through fall and monthly in winter
Light requirement: Full, reflected sun to filtered shade
Mature size: 30 to 60 feet tall and 30 to 40 feet wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil in full sun or filtered shade; prune in winter to shape.
Firebush (Hamelia patens)
N
A Blaze of Color and Fall Foliage
The allure of firebush goes beyond its stunning orange-red spring and summer blooms, which are a magnet for hummingbirds. It saves its grand finale for fall when its lush foliage transforms into a vibrant shade of red, creating a fiery spectacle. In tropical climates, this heat-loving shrub can grow into a small tree, while in drought-tolerant landscapes, it remains a manageable and colorful shrub. Although it dies back when temperatures dip into the 20s, it resurfaces in spring. In zones 7 and below, it can be grown as an annual.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to 10 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 7 to 11)
Water requirement: Moderate; water 18 inches to 2 feet deep weekly in summer, every 10 to 14 days in spring through fall, and every three weeks in winter
Light requirement: Full and reflected sun to filtered shade (full sun is best for flowering)
Mature size: 4 to 5 feet tall and wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil; prune back in spring, after the danger of frost has passed.
This plum tree species is renowned for its regal burgundy-purple foliage that graces the landscape from spring through fall. Despite being a plum tree, its fruits are typically small or nonexistent, as its true value lies in its captivating foliage. Pale pink springtime blossoms are soon followed by the emergence of dark-colored leaves. While several cherry plum varieties exist, ‘Krauter Vesuvius’ stands out as the most drought-tolerant, making it ideal for enduring hot, dry summers.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 5 to 9)
Water requirement: Moderate; water 2 to 3 feet every 10 to 14 days in summer, every two to three weeks in spring and fall, and monthly in winter. In the low desert, water weekly in summer and every 10 to 12 days in spring and fall.
Light requirement: Full sun to filtered shade (full sun is needed for maximum purple color)
Mature size: 15 to 20 feet tall and wide; smaller cultivars are available
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil; prune during winter dormancy.
Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica)
A Bamboo-Like Marvel with Radiant Red Fall Foliage
Heavenly bamboo, often likened to true bamboo due to its fine-textured leaves and upright stems, unveils a delightful transformation in fall and winter. The new growth takes on a charming burgundy tint before transitioning to a bright spring and summer green. As cooler temperatures grace the landscape, the foliage transitions into enchanting shades of red. Additionally, small flowers give way to clusters of red berries in autumn. While moderately drought-tolerant, it thrives in arid regions, maintaining its vigorous growth in controlled environments.
Caution: Heavenly bamboo can become invasive in regions with abundant rainfall, especially in the eastern U.S., and all parts of this shrub are toxic.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 6 to 9)
Water requirement: Low to moderate; water 18 inches to 2 feet twice a month in summer, every three weeks in spring and fall, and monthly in winter. In the low desert, water weekly in summer and twice a month in spring and fall.
Light requirement: Full sun to filtered shade (prefers filtered to full shade in the low desert)
Mature size: 4 to 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide; smaller cultivars are available
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil; selectively prune older branches at the base in late winter or early spring.
Do you have a favorite plant that gives you fall color?
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Understanding Key Pruning Terms for a Beautiful Garden
As the garden begins to awaken in spring, our thoughts turn to getting our plants ready for the growing season, which often involves pruning.
Pruning your favorite shrubs and trees is essential to maintain their health and appearance. To do this properly, you need to be familiar with common pruning terms. As a certified arborist, I’m here to help you understand these terms, so you can care for your plants effectively, whether you do it yourself or hire a professional.
5 Reasons Why Pruning Is Important
There are different types of pruning, each of which, are used to accomplish particular results, ultimately keeping your plants attractive and healthy.
Before diving into pruning terms, let’s explore why pruning matters:
Encourages Strong Branching: Pruning eliminates weak or crossing branches and promotes strong growth.
Removes Dead or Diseased Wood: It helps maintain the overall health of your plants.
Stimulates New Growth: Proper pruning encourages attractive, new growth.
Enhances Wind Resistance: It makes your trees more resistant to windy conditions.
Improves Air Circulation: Pruning promotes air circulation, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
In short, pruning is crucial for maintaining the beauty and vitality of your garden’s trees and shrubs.
If you are learning how to prune your trees and shrubs yourself, it’s especially important to learn about the various ways of pruning to help you determine which way(s) are the best to employ.
A List of 10 Common Pruning Terms
Now, let’s dive into some of the most frequently used pruning terms:
1. Crown:
The upper part of a tree, including branches, stems, and leaves, often referred to as the “canopy.”
2. Crown Cleaning:
Pruning away dead or diseased branches and stems, including the removal of “stubs” or dead branch bases.
3. Crown Raising:
Removing lower branches to elevate the crown of a tree or shrub for clearance.
4. Crown Reduction:
The removal of part of a tree or shrub’s outer growth to prevent wind damage or excessive growth.
5. Crown Thinning:
Removing select interior branches to improve air circulation and reduce the tree’s weight while maintaining its shape.
6. Heading Back:
Pruning branches by up to half of their length to reduce outward growth and promote a natural shape.
7. Root Prune:
Trimming roots, often with a root barrier, when they pose problems to foundations, sidewalks, or walls.
8. Shearing:
Using hedge trimmers to remove a portion of a shrub’s outer growth, commonly for formal hedges or topiary.
9. Structural Pruning:
Shaping young trees by selecting branches for a strong form and better wind resistance.
10. Topping:
The harmful practice of removing the top part of a tree, which should be avoided due to its detrimental effects on the tree.
Best Garden Pruning Tools
Lastly, let’s discuss some common pruning tools:
Chainsaw: Ideal for cutting larger branches that other tools can’t handle.
Hand Pruners: Used for cuts under 1 inch in diameter; bypass pruners are recommended for clean cuts.
Hedge Trimmer: Comes in manual and power forms for shearing cuts in shrubs.
Loppers: With long handles, they cut branches up to 2 inches in diameter and are suitable for tree branches and shrub interiors.
Pole Pruner: Allows pruning high branches while staying on the ground, available in manual and power options.
Pruning Saw: Suitable for branches over 1½ inches in diameter, it’s essential for larger limbs and branches.
Understanding these pruning terms and tools will help you maintain a beautiful and healthy garden.
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Pumpkins play a large part in our fall holiday celebrations. I remember trips to the pumpkin patch when my kids were younger and watching them choose just the ‘right’ pumpkin for our family.
A few weeks later, pumpkins take center stage on Halloween as their artfully carved faces add a festive element to costumed trick-or-treaters.
But, what do you do with them once the holiday is over? Instead of throwing them in the trash can, what if you could find new uses for your pumpkin?
Whether your pumpkin has been carved or left whole, I’ve shared 9 ways to reuse them in the garden and in the home, in my latest article for Houzz. I hope you enjoy!
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Herbs are easy to grow and thrive in arid climates and shrug off the heat. I’m the first to admit that I don’t like messing around with fussy plants and so herbs fit right in with my gardening style.
Toward the end of summer, my garden is overflowing with herbs – especially basil. I certainly have more than I can use right now, so I like to preserve my herbs in a variety of ways so that I can enjoy the fresh flavor of summer throughout the winter months.
preserving herbs
One of the easiest ways to store herbs is by freezing them using olive oil or water. You can see my post on how to freeze herbs here.
Herb salts are a newer way to keep the fresh flavor of herbs alive. The ingredients are simple, and they are a unique way to add a delicious taste to your favorite recipes. See how easy they are to make in this blog post.
Finally, the most popular method for preserving herbs is to dry them. Some types of herbs are easier to dry than others, and there are different methods for drying herbs. I invite you to read my latest article for Houzz.com where it’s all you need to know about drying herbs. I hope you enjoy it!
Do you dry or freeze your herbs? Which herbs work best for you?
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One of the best things about having a garden in the desert southwest is our ability to grow citrus of all kinds. Lemon trees are a popular fruit tree and I am often asked what type of lemon do I recommend.
There are different types of lemons but the one that is my favorite isn’t a ‘true’ lemon tree at all. It’s a Meyer lemon, which is a cross between an orange tree and a lemon tree.
The result is a fruit that tastes sweeter than your typical lemon and has lovely thin, smooth skin. Meyer lemons are suitable for use in the same ways that other lemons are, but you can use them in additional ways as well due to their sweeter nature.
I recently shared the reasons why you should plant a Meyer lemons tree in one of my latest articles for Houzz.
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In the past, succulent plants were valued primarily for their drought tolerance and found their way into gardens in arid regions. Today, while they are still a great choice for water-wise plants are wise, they offer many other benefits to outdoor spaces including adding colorful flowers and solving common garden problems.
Elk Horn (Cotyledon orbiculata)
I’ve written a series of articles for Houzz focusing on succulents and how you can add beauty to your garden with these versatile plants that will thrive in arid climates.
I hope you find inspiration through them and look at succulent plants in a new way.
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Taking photos of succulents in a hidden garden in California.
I have a love affair with succulents.
There are so many reasons for my passion, but the biggest reason is that they are easy to grow, and a low-maintenance way to add beauty to the garden.
The popularity of succulents is taking off and nursery shelves are filled with numerous varieties to tempt gardeners. Many people are beginning to replace high-maintenance plants with fuss-free succulents.
Sticks on Fire Euphorbia and Elephants Food
Succulents can also be a great choice for solving common gardening problems. For example, they make great container plants and require a fraction of the care that flowering annuals do.
I share my favorite ways to use succulents in the garden in my latest article for Houzz. I hope that you find inspiration for solving your garden problems by adding these lovely plants.
How Succulents Can Solve Your Garden Problems
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How To Choose the Right Fertilizer for Your Plants
Have you ever passed through the fertilizer aisle at your local nursery or big box store and felt overwhelmed by the large selection? It’s not surprising with so many different brands and types of fertilizer vying for our attention. What do those three numbers mean and how do you know which one is right for your needs?
In my latest Houzz article, I go through the basics of fertilizer and examine how they work so you can choose the right one that fits the needs of your plants.
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There is nothing quite so refreshing as the fragrance of lemons as you slice through their yellow skin. Lemons are a very popular fruit tree for those of us who in zones 8 and above and their lush green foliage and yellow fruit add beauty to the garden.
If you have been thinking of adding a lemon tree to your landscape, March is the best time of year to plant new citrus in the garden as it gives them time to become established before the heat of summer arrives.
I am often asked about what type of lemon is best for the garden. My personal choice is Meyer lemon for a number of reasons. You may have heard of this type of lemon tree, but what you may not know is that it isn’t a ‘true’ lemon – it’s actually a naturally occurring hybrid of a lemon and ‘Mandarin’ orange. This results in a pseudo-lemon that is sweeter and less acidic than true lemons such as ‘Eureka’ and ‘Lisbon’.
See why you should consider planting a Meyer lemon tree in your backyard in my latest article for Houzz.com. (Click on the photo below to read the article).
*What type of lemon tree to you grow?
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