Summers in the desert garden is hot. That’s no surprise. However, there are periods within these hot months when temperatures climb higher than normal. Because of this, we do need to help protect our gardens from the effects of a heatwave.
So, what is considered a heatwave in the low to mid-altitude desert? As a rule, when the mercury edges above 110 degrees F. During a heatwave, they can even go close to 120 degrees – ouch!
Thankfully, there are things you can do to help prepare the plants within your garden right now.
Here is my #1 tip…
Water your plants deeply the night before three – four day span of 110+ degree are forecast. This is in addition to your regular drip irrigation schedule.
The goal of this supplemental irrigation is to water deeply. This allow the soil to stay moister for longer, which will benefit your plants.
Under normal circumstances, I water my plants for 1 1/2 hours. However, in preparation of a heatwave, I water 2-3 hours. Plants will need more water in order to deal with the extreme temps and the extra water that will be lost to the atmosphere through their leaves.
Don’t do this every night, only every 4 days or so during a heatwave.
My second piece of advice…
Provide temporary shade for young plants in your landscape as they are more susceptible to stress from a heatwave.
This is because they don’t have a well-established root system to uptake much water and sparser foliage, so there aren’t many leaves to shade other parts of the plant.
Shade cloth is useful for protection lasting over several months. But for short-term shade during a heatwave, you can use burlap, sheets, an umbrella, or even place a patio chair over a susceptible plant. Uncover plants once temperatures are within the normal range.
Hot temperatures are a fact of life during the desert summer as are heatwaves. But, implementing one, or both, of these tips will help the plants in your garden.
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Have you ever seen the beauty of cactuses showcased in containers? Adding a cactus to a container helps to set it apart from the rest of the landscape and helps it to stand out so that its unique texture and shape really stand out. However, if the thought of having to plant a prickly cactus yourself has given you second thoughts about doing it yourself, it isn’t as hard as it seems. Let’s take a closer look at how to plant a cactus in a pot.
Tried and True Cactus Planting Steps
I have planted my share of cactus over my career (usually) without getting stabbed with the spines. My method of choice is to use an old towel to cover the cactus while I removing it from a pot and planting it. However, on a trip to B&B Cactus Farm in Tucson, I was able to observed an expert at work (see the video below for a few smart tips).
1. Selecting the Right Container
Choose a large pot with good drainage that is at least 2-3 inches wider in diameter than the cactus. Ensure the container is made of a durable material like terracotta or ceramic. This will provide stability and allow the cactus to grow comfortably.
2. Gathering Your Materials
Gather the necessary materials:
Large cactus
Well-draining cactus potting mix
Gravel or small rocks
Safety gloves
Tongs, newspaper, or plastic bag
A piece of burlap or an old towel
3. Preparing the Pot
Start by placing a layer of gravel or small rocks at the bottom of the pot to enhance drainage.
Fill the pot with the well-draining cactus potting mix, leaving enough space at the top for your cactus.
4. Handling the Cactus
Put on safety gloves to protect your hands from the cactus spines.
Use tongs or wrap the cactus in newspaper or plastic bags to gently lift it out of its current container. Be cautious not to damage the roots or prick yourself.
5. Positioning the Cactus
Carefully position the cactus in the center of the prepared pot, ensuring it sits at the same depth as it was in its original container. You may need someone to help hold the cactus steady while you fill in the soil.
6. Filling the Pot with Soil
Using the well-draining cactus potting mix, start filling in the space around the cactus. Tamp the soil down gently to provide stability.
7. Mulching (Optional)
Consider adding a layer of decorative gravel or small stones on top of the soil for both aesthetics and to help prevent moisture loss.
8. Watering
Water the newly potted cactus sparingly, allowing the soil to become slightly dry between waterings. Overwatering can lead to root rot.
9. Placement and Sunlight
Find a suitable location for your potted cactus. Most cacti prefer bright, indirect sunlight, so place it near a window with filtered light. Avoid direct, intense sunlight initially.
10. Maintenance
Regularly inspect your cactus for signs of pests, disease, or any issues with drainage.
Re-pot your cactus into a larger container when it outgrows its current pot.
By following these steps, you can successfully plant a large cactus in a pot, creating an attractive and low-maintenance addition to your indoor or outdoor space.
B&B Cactus Farm
Exploring B&B Cactus Farm
Whenever I find myself in Tucson, I always try to find time to visit B&B Cactus Nursery. They have a large selection cacti, including my favorites – Torch cactus(Trichocereus hybrids). While they are rather unassuming when not in flower, they transform win spring when their large blossoms open.
‘First Light’ Torch Cactus Hybrid
‘First Light’ Torch Cactus Hybrid
My first visit to B&B Cactus Farm was several years ago and I had the intention of buying one torch cactus. However, as often happens with me and plants, I came home with two, including this stunning ‘First Light’ torch cactus.
On my second visit, I bought a new torch cactus hybrid and a colorful blue container to plant it in.
Meeting a Cactus Expert
Normally, I plant my own cactus, but a conversation with one of the cactus experts at the nursery changed my mind.
Damon was busy potting cactus at a table with a large pile of succulent potting mix behind him. I struck up a conversation with him and found that he had an interesting story that had him ending up at a cactus nursery in Arizona. He worked in the banking industry and moved to Arizona from Oklahoma a year ago, and began work at a local bank.
After awhile, he decided that being a banker wasn’t for him and found happiness working with cactus. As he put it, “People are always stressed about money when they visit the bank, but everyone who comes to the nursery is happy, because plants make people smile.”
We had a great time talking and I decided to have him pot my cactus, which would make it easier to transport home. When I explained that I had a gardening website and wanted to take a video of him potting the cactus, he graciously agreed and provided lots of helpful advice.
So here is a banker turned cactus expert, showing you how to plant cactus in a pot:
I hope you enjoyed Damon’s helpful tips. For more helpful videos, subscribe to my YouTube Channel.
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I absolutely love spring. Some years, spring never arrives. Sometimes spring goes missing and winter turns right into summer. But not this year. We have had beautiful weather and I have enjoyed being outdoors.
But, all good things must come to an end. Now don’t get me wrong. I do like the summer, but you will find me inside much more often then outside. Sometimes I wonder if some of my plants would rather be inside enjoying the air-conditioning.
Did you know that May and June are the most stressful months for plants in the desert southwest? Well, it is. Although the hot summer temperatures cool down in the evening, the daytime heat coupled with the extreme dryness of our climate is quite stressful for plants. When the monsoon season arrives in July, the increased humidity and rain bring relief to the plants.
So, what is a plant to do when it cannot escape indoors from the heat? Well, I would love to show you one example of what some shrubs do to deal with the dry heat.
To really see what I am talking about, look closely at the photo below…
love spring
Can you see it? Can you tell what helps to protect the flowers from the sun?
Hint: Look at the little hairs on the petals.
Texas Sage (Leucophyllum frutescens) and all other Leucophyllum species have tiny hairs on their flowers, stems and their leaves, which help to deflect the sun’s rays and helps to reduce the amount of water lost to the air. It is these tiny hairs that give the leaves a gray-green color.
Drive down any street in the Desert Southwest and you will see these beautiful shrubs throughout the residential landscape.
Even though I have worked as a horticulturist for over 10 years, I am still amazed at how plants adapt to their environment.
By the way, you may be thinking that I took these close-up photos to show the tiny hairs covering the blossoms, but actually, my goal was to show how beautiful the flower was. It was only after I downloaded the pictures that I saw the tiny hairs.
It makes you wonder what else you may find just by taking close-up pictures of plants….
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Springtime in the desert southwest is a glorious time, particularly with pink blooming plants.
We say “goodbye” to cold, winter temperatures and delight in the landscape around us and it bursts into bloom.
I enjoy spending time outdoors this time of year, realizing that soon I will go into what I like to call ‘summer hibernation’ as the temperatures reach triple digits.
A Showcase of Pink Blooming Plants
Today, I thought that I would share with you some beautiful, pink flowering plants that are in bloom right now…
Pink Fairy Duster (Calliandra eriophylla)
Pink Fairy Duster (Calliandra eriophylla)
The marvelous pink fairy duster shows off its pink flowers once a year in spring. The rest of the year, it quietly recedes into the background until spring arrives again.
Beavertail Prickly Pear (Opuntia basilaris)
Beavertail Prickly Pear (Opuntia basilaris)
My favorite prickly pear has vibrant, pink flowers throughout spring. One of the reasons that I like beavertail prickly pear is that it stays rather small and does not become overgrown like other species can.
Parry’s Penstemon (Penstemon parryi)
Parry’s Penstemon (Penstemon parryi)
I’m a sucker for plants that produce flowering spikes, like Parry’s penstemon. It has such a delicate, pink color and hummingbirds find it irresistible.
Pink California Poppy
Pink California Poppy
Did you know that the traditional, orange California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) comes in other colors? I think I’m in love with the pink variety.
‘Raspberry Ice’ Bougainvillea
‘Raspberry Ice’ Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea makes an excellent container plant. All you have to do is water them deeply and then allow them to dry out before watering again. Although I have a deep, magenta bougainvillea in my own garden – I must admit that I really like the variety ‘Raspberry Ice’ which has cream-colored brachts with pink tips.
Pink Gaura (Gaura lindheimeri ‘Siskiyou Pink’)
Pink Gaura (Gaura lindheimeri ‘Siskiyou Pink’
Although traditionally a summer-bloomer, this pink gaura was already blooming in March. It makes a great filler for container gardens in the warm season.
Mexican Evening Primrose (Oenothera berlandieri)
Mexican Evening Primrose (Oenothera berlandieri)
Pink, cup-shaped blooms cover Mexican evening primrose in spring. This groundcover looks great in natural desert landscapes, but can be invasive, so be careful where you use it.
Hedgehog Cactus (Echinocereus engelmannii)
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Shopping for Succulents, Desert Botanical Garden Plant Sale
I enjoy attending plant sales hosted by botanical gardens. Why? Because you can often find the newest plants (even hard to find ones) at them. Of course, you can also find old favorites as well.
Smart Succulent Shopping: Tips to Save on Succulents
Succulents, including cacti are a great way to add texture and interest to the garden at a fraction of the maintenance and water that other plants require. However, they tend to be more expensive than shrubs, vines, and perennials. But, don’t worry – I’m here to help you save money on succulents with these tips…
Shopping for Succulents
Shopping for Succulents
1. Choose Wisely: Avoid purchasing agave in 15-gallon containers or larger.
Why? Well, almost all species of agave will flower toward the end of their life and then die. That is what agave do.
Flowering is triggered by the age of the agave. In addition, different agave species live for differing lengths of time – some live less than 10 years. If you buy a 15-gallon or larger boxed agave – it is safe to assume that they are much older then those in smaller pots and will flower and die much sooner.
So my advice is to purchase agave in 1 or 5-gallon sizes – they will last much longer and you’ll save a lot of money.
*BONUS: Look for succulents that have more than one plant growing in the nursery pot. Sometimes, you can find more than one – that’s like getting 2 for the price of 1!
Better yet, ask a friend or neighbor for a volunteer (pup) from their agave. Many agave species produce volunteers that can be transplanted. To learn how, click here.
Shopping for Succulents, My husband and daughter checking out the young saguaro cacti.
2. Size Matters – Buy smaller cacti rather then larger.
Columnar cacti are beautiful, but expensive. The price is usually based on the height of the cactus. Saguaro cacti are priced based on each foot high they are plus the height of each arm.
The price for a 1 ft. high Totem Pole cactus was $48.
The reason that I recommend starting out with a smaller columnar cactus such as Mexican Fence Post (Pachycereus marinatus) or ‘Monstrose’ Totem Pole (Lophocereus schottii ‘Monstrose’) is that they will begin to grow at a faster rate once planted in the ground.
Smaller Plants are Smarter Plants
In fact, smaller plants have an easier time becoming established then larger ones.
Many columnar types of cacti grow faster in the landscape then in the wild due to the presence of water – that includes saguaro cacti as well.
Cacti from Cuttings
Like agave, you can start some species of columnar cacti from cuttings.
I planted this Mexican Fence Post cactus in my garden 11 years ago. It started out as a 2 foot cutting given to me by a client from their large cactus.
Look how much it has grown! You can ask a neighbor or friend if they would mind you taking a stem (or pad) off of their cactus so you can start your own.
Many cacti can be started as cuttings. Simply take a piece of cacti, and place it in a dry, shady spot for two weeks and then plant it in the ground or in a pot. Wait a month before watering. For a new cactus cutting, it’s a good idea to water it once a month through its first year.
3. Plant with Care: Handling Prickly Succulents
If you hadn’t noticed, many succulents are prickly. So, it is a good idea to plan on how you are going to plant it. Decide whether you can do it yourself or if you will need to hire someone to plant it for you.
For small cacti, you can use a towel to help you plant them without getting pricked. See how here.
For larger cacti, you can use pieces of carpet or rubber straps. But when in doubt about whether you can plant it yourself, hire an expert.
*Years ago, as a golf course horticulturist, I used to transplant Teddy Bear Cholla (Opuntia bigelovii) from areas that were to be built upon. I would use rubber straps to carry the cholla and regular kitchen tongs to pick up the pieces that dropped off. I would then plant them elsewhere.
4. Look for Discounts: Keep an eye out for discounted plants.
Often, not all plants will meet the high standards of the nursery. Sometimes, this can be mostly cosmetic damage, but occasionally you will see a succulent that has not been watered correctly or placed in too much or too little sun.
This can be a great way to save money and provide a little TLC to new succulents. Research online how to care for that particular plant and soon you will have a healthy succulent growing in your garden that cost you a lot less.
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I hope that these tips will be helpful to you the next time you are shopping for succulents.
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Addressing Issues in Landscaping: A Guide to Pruned Shrubs
Have you ever driven past a landscape that had some problems with it? As a horticulturist and landscape consultant, my attention diverts whenever I see ‘Landscape No-No’s’ like this one. In this article, we’ll examine a landscape example and highlight the problems it presents.
Introduction: Identifying Landscape Problems
A while ago, I shared the photo of the landscape, above, on my Facebook page and invited people to identify three things wrong with the landscape. I received a lot of comments including “looks like Versailles by the inept” and “shrubs arranged like funny-looking ottomans spread across gravel.”
It’s essential to clarify that the purpose of showcasing landscapes like this isn’t to shame homeowners. Instead, our goal is to help you identify common problems and provide straightforward solutions to correct or prevent them in your landscaping projects.
So, using this landscape as an example, let’s look at the problems and later, focus on how to solve them:
1. Overcrowded Shrubs
It’s obvious that there are too many plants in this area and the mature size of the shrubs weren’t factored in the original design. The types of flowering shrubs in this area – desert ruellia(Ruellia peninsularis),Baja fairy duster(Calliandra californica), and ‘Green Cloud’ sage(Leucophyllum frutescens ‘Green Cloud’) are good choices. They are clearly spaced too closely together due to poor pruning.
2. Lack of Plant Diversity
As you can see, there is a tree, a couple of succulents (prickly pear cactus & yucca), and a LOT of shrubs. While there is a variety of plants in the landscape, there’s an overabundance of shrubs compared to other types. The landscape lacks a balanced mix of different plant types, resulting in an imbalance that affects its overall aesthetics.
3. Incorrectly Pruned Flowering Shrubs
These lovely, flowering shrubs are contorted into anonymous, green blobs. They lack in beauty and character. In fact, you would have to look closely to be able to identify what each shrub is. The problem is what is missing from this landscape. Primarily attractive shrubs which grow into their natural shapes, covered in colorful flowers. Other problems associated with maintaining flowering shrubs this way are that it is stressful for the plant, shortens their lifespan, causes them to use more water to regrow their leaves, and creates more maintenance.
Solutions: Correcting the Landscape
Now that we have identified the problems, we can now look at the solutions. I will use the landscape above as my example:
Remove excess shrubs. Remove 24 of the 32 shrubs. You will be then have eight flowering shrubs. To decide what shrubs to remove, learn what type of shrub they are and look up how large they are at maturity. Then, make sure that the ones that remain have enough room to grow. Place shrubs up near the house. This anchors the corners of the landscape, and flank an entry.
Severely prune back remaining shrubs. Many shrubs have a ‘restart button’ where much of the damage that has been done due to excessive pruning can be reversed. Severe renewal pruning entails pruning back shrubs to approximately 1 1/2 feet tall and wide in spring. You’ll have nothing left but woody branches and little to no leaves. However, this stimulates plants to produce new, healthy growth. Do this pruning in spring. The key is to keep hedge trimmers away from your newly pruned shrubs forever. Prune with hand pruners, loppers, and pruning saws. This will work with most shrubs except for a few that were in declining health.
Photo: Which one would you rather have? Learn how to maintain shrubs the right way in the desert garden in my popular shrub pruning workshop
Incorporate lower-growing plants such as groundcovers and succulents. A well-designed landscape has plants with varying heights, including those at ground level. For the landscape above, I’d add a few boulders and plant some gopher plant (Euphorbia rigida) and twin-flower agave (Agave geminiflora) alongside them. Other ideas for low-growing succulents include ‘Blue Elf’ aloe, Moroccan mound, and artichoke agave. Flowering groundcovers would also look nice like angelita daisy (Tetraneuris acaulis), blackfoot daisy (Melampodium leucanthum), and sandpaper verbena (Glandularia rigida). I like to use damianita, trailing lantana, and penstemon for color at lower heights.
Photo: Attractive desert landscape with room for plants to grow
Achieving a Balanced and Beautiful Landscape
Here is a snapshot of a landscape area at the Desert Botanical Garden where plants have room to grow. They grow into their natural shape and form.
Transforming the problematic landscape shown earlier, and others like it aren’t difficult, and the results are dramatic. What a beautiful landscape filled with healthy plants that use less water and need little maintenance.
Are you tired of shapeless shrubs that look like green blobs? I invite you to learn more about how to prune the ‘right’ way. Attend my online Shrub Pruning Workshop.
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Do you have parts of your backyard landscape that you would like to change? Perhaps you have areas you like in your garden. There are also plants you are tired of or are struggling to manage.
I want to show you what I did in my backyard, where I blended both old and new elements. First, a little history:
Balancing Old and New in a Backyard Landscape
Preserving What Works
I was fairly happy with the areas bordering the walls of the backyard. These areas have colorful shrubs such as Bougainvillea, Coral Fountain, and Yellow Bells.
Bid Farewell to the Dominant Lawn
We removed the large lawn that had dominated the center of my backyard space last year. We made the decision to replace the grass with a focus on plants that I love and that would blend well with the existing plants.
Creating a Harmonious Landscape
A New Focal Point
The focal point is a new flagstone seating area with Adirondack chairs arranged around a portable firepit. Around this area, boulders add height and texture. Angelita Daisy, Artichoke Agave, Blackfoot Daisy, and Pink Muhly grasses surround the seating area, which adds year-round color and texture.
In another area, a gentle mound stands planted with a ‘Bubba’ Desert Willow tree. Purple Trailing Lantana grows around the tree and will soon cover the entire mound in a mass of purple blooms.
Embracing Change and Growth
At this point, the new plants are still rather small. However, plants grow quickly in the desert climate and, in another year, will soon reach their mature size.
The Beauty of Seamless Integration
The result? A backyard landscape where the new and old will blend seamlessly together. I am delighted with how the finished product looks. It took me a long time to decide what to do with this area – it is so much easier to design someone else’s yard than your own.
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Do you love the beauty of bougainvillea? Many of us will agree that bougainvillea is beautiful, but many homeowners hesitate to grow them for a variety of reasons. The most common that I hear is that they get too big and as a result, too messy.
Embracing Bougainvillea: Maximizing Beauty while Minimizing Hassle in Containers
While both statements are certainly true, wouldn’t it be nice to enjoy the captivating and vibrant beauty of bougainvillea in a more controlled manner? One can find great satisfaction in discovering how to strategically grow bougainvillea, harnessing its enchanting colors and delicate blooms while mitigating the challenges associated with its exuberant growth and occasional unruliness.
Thriving in Harsh Desert Summers: Consider Growing Bougainvillea
Let’s face it; summers in the desert can be brutal and bougainvillea are one of the lush green, flowering shrubs that thrive in intense heat and sun. So, why not consider adding one in a high-profile area where you can enjoy their beauty throughout the warm season?
Grab my FREE guide for Fuss-Free Plants that thrive in a hot, dry climate!
The Advantage of Potted Bougainvillea: Small Size, Less Mess
Growing bougainvillea in pots limits their overall size, and with smaller shrubs, there is less mess. It also makes it easier to protect them from frost damage in winter by moving the container to a sheltered location, such as underneath a patio or covering them with a sheet.
Bougainvillea make excellent container plants. In fact, many gardeners who live in cold climates, only grow them in pots and move them indoors in winter. I met a gardener in Austin, Texas who treats bougainvillea like an annual plant, planting a new one every year to replace the old one lost to winter cold. Thankfully, we don’t need to do add a new one every year.
Simple Steps to Cultivating Bougainvillea in Pots
Growing bougainvillea in pots is easy to do. Select a location in full sun where it will promote the most bloom. Bougainvillea are one of the few flowering plants that can handle west-facing exposures.
Nurturing and Feeding Your Potted Bougainvillea for Optimal Growth
Provide support for them to grow upward if desired. You can also grow bougainvillea as more of a compact shrub form if you wish.
Water deeply and allow the top 2 inches to dry out before watering again. Bougainvillea does best when the soil is allowed to dry out between watering.
Apply a slow-release fertilizer in spring, after the danger of frost is passed. You’ll want to reapply fertilizer every three months until September.
Winter Care and Final Thoughts: Flourish with Potted Bougainvillea
Growing bougainvillea in pots keeps them small enough to make it feasible to cover them when freezing temperatures occur. So, if you like container gardening, consider growing bougainvillea in a pot for great success.
Let’s face it. Hot summers are not surprising to desert dwellers. In fact, a typical desert garden with native and desert-adapted plants will weather intense heat with little fuss.
However, this summer has been one for the books and I’ve seen signs of heat-stress that I’ve never seen before. And yes, within my own garden.
Heat-stressed Rock Penstemon and Golden Barrel Cactus
I must admit that it’s been hard to see certain plants struggling in my desert garden and I know you may have similar feelings. So, why has this summer been so much more difficult than others?
Pink Trumpet Vine partially defoliated due to the heat
While it is normal to have several days above 110 degrees F., the summer of 2020 is one for the record books. We have experienced not just a couple of stretches of above-normal temps but, several long spans of infernal heat. Damage to plants is often cumulative. This means that the more days of above-average (or below-average) temperatures – the higher incidence of reaction from plants.
Take a walk outside in your garden. You will likely notice some plants that are yellowing, wilting, or have given up and died. However, you may also note that there are some that are doing well.
Why is that? Let me show you some examples from my own garden – the good AND the ugly.
Let’s start with the ugly:
New Mexican Fence Post cactus transplants
In March, much of my backyard was renovated. This included the addition of two separate plantings of Mexican Fence Post cacti. They are located along my back wall and as you can see, one is doing very well while the other makes me cringe when I see the yellowing.
Does the yellowing cactus need more or less water? No. Many succulents yellow in response to summer heat. Of course, this very hot summer has made it more severe. So, why the difference between the two?
The one on the left gets filtered shade in the afternoon from a nearby Palo Verde tree. You can tell that the one on the right doesn’t get any shade but full afternoon sun. In a normal summer, it would be normal to see some yellowing that will return to green once temperatures cool. I am hopeful that will happen. As plants age, they tend to handle heat stress better and as these are young, the stress was especially severe.
Signs of heat stress
In another area of my garden, I have Green Desert Spoon and Hardy Spineless Prickly Pear, which are very heat-adapted. Yet, they do show signs of mild heat-stress that I haven’t seen before. But, they will green back up in fall. Other plants that are struggling include Artichoke Agave, Gopher Plant, and Shrubby Germander.
I am thrilled that my young Desert Willow tree in this photo is thriving despite the heat. I have four others scattered throughout my landscape and all are doing just as well.
Here are some of the good:
Young Baja Ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis) doing very well. The neighbor’s Dwarf Myrtle isn’t.
‘Sparky’ Tecoma shrub (Tecoma ‘Sparky’)
Pink Muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris). Will soon burst forth in burgundy plumes in fall.
Gold Lantana in full sun all day
Feathery Cassia, Purple Trailing Lantana, and Yellow Bell shrubs are also doing well.
Here are a couple of exceptional performers that get full, reflected sun:
‘Rio Bravo’ Texas Sage
Bougainvillea
There are still six weeks of summer heat ahead of us. So, what should we do for now?
Be sure plants are receiving enough water. You may need to increase the frequency when temps are above 110 degrees.
Don’t fertilize. Feeding plants simply makes them work harder to produce new growth when all they are trying to do is deal with the heat.
Don’t prune away heat-damaged growth until September. While brown leaves are ugly, they are protecting the interior of the plant. Some pruning is recommended in mid-September, which I teach in my Shrub Pruning Workshop.
We don’t know if this summer will be an anomaly or the beginning of a new normal. But, instead of throwing in the towel, I invite you to do the following instead:
Take a stroll through your garden and take note of which plants are doing well and those that aren’t. If this is to be the new norm, it would be a good idea to add more of those that handle the heat well.
I am not going to make any major changes in my own garden. Most of my plants have done just fine in past summers. I’ll replace the few plants that died but am hopeful that next summer will be one with average temperatures. If not, then I know what plants have withstood the heat best.
Before we know it, fall will be here, and I for one, can’t wait!
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/desert-garden-summer.jpg480640arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2020-08-19 20:44:582020-12-13 04:09:06Lessons From a Heat-Stressed Desert Garden
Photo: Roses Feeling The Heat , My Abraham Darby shrub rose and my little dog, Tobey.
Challenges of Hot Arid Climates for Roses
If you live in a hot arid climate, chances are that your roses are feeling the heat and aren’t looking their best right now. While gardeners in cooler climates celebrate summer with beautiful rose blooms, the opposite is true for those of us who live in the desert.
Surprisingly, roses actually grow quite well in hot, southwestern zones, and even though mine look somewhat sunburned – I’m not worried because this is normal. Understanding proper irrigation makes a big difference, but roses feeling heat will still have concerns.
Effects of Roses Feeling Heat with Intense Sun and Warmth
You see, roses that are grown in the low desert regions, don’t like the intense sun and heat that summer brings. As a result, the flowers become smaller, and the petals burn in the sun and turn crispy. By July, you are unlikely to see any new roses appearing until Fall.
Impact on Rose Plant Leaves
The rose blooms aren’t the only parts of the roses feeling heat concerns in summer – the leaves can become sunburn.
The sight of brown crispy petals and leaves may make you want to prune them away, but don’t.
Why?
Avoiding Premature Pruning
Pruning will stimulate new growth that will be even more susceptible to sunburn damage. Second, the older branches and leaves will help to shade the growth underneath the sun.
Strategic Pruning Schedule will Help Roses Feeling Heat
I know that it is very hard not to prune away the brown leaves – I feel you. However, in September, pull out your pruning shears and prune back your rose bushes by 1/3. This removes the sun-damaged flowers and leaves and stimulates new growth.
Comparative Benefits of Hot Arid Climates
If you lament the less-than-stellar appearance of your summer roses feeling heat, and think it’s easier to grow roses in other climates, you would be wrong.
Oh, certainly, we have to deal with our roses not looking great in the summer. But, compare that with gardeners in other regions who have to deal with the dreaded Japanese beetle that shows up every summer and eats their roses. Or, people who live in more humid climates and are having to deal with severe cases of blackspot or powdery mildew (white spots on the leaves).
Blessing of Dual Bloom Seasons in the Southwest
Lastly – we are fortunate to enjoy two separate bloom seasons for our roses. In fall, when many other gardeners are putting their roses to bed for the winter, ours are getting ready to bloom a second time that year.
And so, I will ignore my less than beautiful roses this summer, because I know that they will look fantastic this fall It is that simple 🙂
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/IMG_1702.jpg480640arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2020-07-01 07:00:002023-08-31 12:49:56Are Your Roses Feeling The Heat?
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