Sometimes when I am driving around, I see a poorly pruned tree or shrub, and I just cringe. It never ceases to amaze me the crazy ways that people take care of their plants. Whenever I see plants like this, I whip out my camera and quickly take a photo and then drive away before the homeowner asks what I am doing.
Butchered Palo Brea Tree
I mean if they catch me taking a photo, I can’t very well tell them, “I am taking pictures of the horrible way you prune your trees ?” Can I? Well, I probably could and should, but I am too chicken to confront people that way. I have no problem confronting people about their horrible pruning if they have asked me over to do a consult on their landscaping. I just like an invitation first before I tell people what they are doing wrong 😉
‘Topped’ Willow Acacia
Willow Acacia as it should look like.
Although, the primary purpose of this post is to entertain with photos of truly awful pruning disasters. I just have to step up on my “high horse” for just a minute regarding one type of pruning that is widespread. So please bear with me…
One of the most harmful types of pruning in regards to trees is called ‘topping’ the tree. It removes a lot of the top growth. This is usually done to shorten the tree and to preserve a view. The topping is NOT good for the tree and accelerates more top growth. The new branches are weakly attached and are much more liable to break, which can cause damage to what is underneath. Also, topping trees greatly stress the tree which can make them susceptible to insect and certain environmental factors. You can read more about topping trees here Tree Care.
Chilean Mesquite with a ‘kink’ in its trunk.
‘Poodle’ Olive Tree
Okay, the vast majority of trees should not be prune into round shapes.
Palo Brea tree pruned into a ‘ball.’
Palo Brea tree as it should look.
A Blue Palo Verde tree that lost its head.
A few years ago we suffered a severe micro-burst during the summertime at the community where I was working. The tree above snapped off in the high winds at a weak point in the trunk, which was weak due to improper pruning that was done a long time before the storm.
This is an Orange tree that has been pruned correctly.
The Citrus tree, above, has been pruned the right way, but I just had to include it in this post because it is so humorous. Look closely (you can click on the photo to enlarge)…. the homeowner tied CDs to the tree to scare off the birds from eating the fruit.
Many people prune their Citrus trees up so that they look more like a ‘typical’ tree. But what many people don’t know is that the lower branches produce the most fruit, the sweetest fruit and protects the trunk from sunburn.
Now for some truly awful examples of shrubs….remember the “cupcakes” from a previous post?
Little Leaf Cordia pruned into a ‘ball.’
In an earlier post, we covered the epidemic of pruning shrubs into the shapes of ‘cupcakes.’ Well, there is another epidemic in where people prune their shrubs into the shape of a ‘ball.’ We call this type of pruning, “Poodle-Pruning” because the shrubs resemble the ball shapes that poodles have when groomed. Either way, ‘cupcakes’ or ‘poodle,’ neither are good for your shrubs and take away from their beauty.
Feathery Cassia shrubs with large areas of dead growth.
One of the results of repeated shearing of your shrubs into specific shapes (cupcakes or balls), results in areas of dead growth. This is because sunlight cannot penetrate inside the shrub and it is constantly trying to replace the growth that is cut off constantly. There is a cure, which I will cover in a spring time post, which is when corrective pruning should be done.
Thunder Cloud Sage, unpruned
Now I don’t recommend going to the other extreme, above, and not pruning. Just do it correctly. So, if you have any ‘cupcakes’ or ‘poodles’ in your landscape, do not panic! I will cover the correct ways to prune many shrubs in the spring, which is the time that it should be done.
So, take care to prune properly, because you never know when I will come driving by with my camera….
Beautiful Desert Sunset…..Storm Clouds On The Horizon
desertFor those of you who have been fortunate enough to experience a desert sunset, you know how beautiful they can be. In fact, the desert is well known for it’s spectacular sunsets.
This photo was taken outside of my front door. Storm clouds were on the horizon, headed our way from California.
You Know You’re a Desert Dweller When….
AZ Plant Lady… you rejoice when it rains!
It sounds crazy, I know, but it is absolutely true. Our weather is usually sunny and beautiful the majority of the year. Now don’t get me wrong, we do love our sunny days, but sometimes we yearn for something different.
This week we are in for wet and rainy weather. Just the thought of a rainy day brings a smile to many desert dweller’s faces. Winter rains are usually gentle, not like the torrential summer rains that we experience.
The desert ground drinks up the rain greedily and soon the desert will become covered in a sea of green grass.
Even as a child, growing up in Southern California, I loved rainy days. Now, there are some who hate the rain, no matter what. As for me, I choose to rejoice knowing that the sunny days that I also love will soon be back.
Cold Weather in the Desert ? Are You Kidding ?
CaliforniaThis may come as a shock to some of you….but, it does get cold in the desert. Tonight’s temperatures are dropping to the low 30’s, which for us desert dwellers is cold. Below, is a sampling of how winter looks in the desert.
I was surprised when I moved here from Southern California, that is actually got much colder here in the winter. I live in zone 8b and we do have a few nights a year with the temps in the 20’s, occasionally dipping into the high teens. Tonight, my neighbors have their frost-sensitive plants covered with either frost cloth or old towels. I just covered my 3 Lantana shrubs in the front yard with some old sheets.
I have enjoyed the photos of frost covered landscapes that many of you have posted. My most memorable experiences with frost is of driving through the golf courses where I worked when there was a solid layer of frost on the grass. Everything was white and looked so beautiful.
I do enjoy the winter months, but I am always ready for the spring and warm weather….
Dragons In The Garden and Perilous Hills
AZ Plant LadyChinese dragons
Who would expect to find dragons in the garden? Well these two Chinese dragons look quite at home in the park gardens.
When I first visited China, I fell in love with the beautiful landscaping that I found everywhere. However, I also found some interesting anomalies as well which I will share along with some photos of the beautiful landscape areas.
This November scene above was found at Martyr’s Park in Changsha. If you look at the trees in the background, you can see that they stake them rather differently then we do.
Look carefully and you can see that there are young trees beginning to grow out of either side of the window of this Catholic Church in Guangzhou.
OK, there are no anomalies here, just a beautiful setting.
While visiting the Forbidden City in Beijing, we were warned to be careful and be sure not to climb those perilous hills. So, I warned my kids who looked at me like I was crazy ;^)
The scenery was just breathtaking in many of the areas we visited.
Don’t you think that this tree has outgrown it’s original planting area? Maybe they should have read the plant label ahead of time to see how large this tree would get.
Beauty can be found everywhere, such as this museum garden in Hangzhou.
Beautiful Banyan trees just a block from our hotel.
Okay, I admit that this photo has nothing to do with gardens or gardening. But, since there are two trees in the background I thought I could include it. This street worker had propped up his ladder in the middle of the intersection and had it resting against the wires.
I have more pictures to share, some beautiful and others that are humorous, but that is for another post….
Winter Flowers, Fragrance and a Funny Name
AZ Plant LadyWant beautiful foliage, spectacular flowers all packaged up in a tree that blooms in fall and winter? Well, let me introduce you to a medium -sized tree with a funny name: Cascalote (Caesalpinia cacalaco).
I love this medium-sized tree with it’s circular leaves, textured bark and winter flowers. Native to Mexico, Cascalote produces beautiful yellow flowers during the cooler months of fall and winter. It is hardy to 20 degrees F, but will lose it’s leaves during if temperatures dip into the 20’s. At maturity, the approximate size is 20 ft. x 20 ft.
I bought my first Cascalote 11 years ago when my Plant Identification class took a field trip to the Boyce Thompson Arboretum. They were having a plant sale and I bought a 15-gallon size Cascalote, which I planted it against a west facing wall that received a lot of reflected sun and heat.
The yellow flowers are stunning when viewed against the backdrop of a deep blue sky. Early in November, they begin to produce tall spires of tightly bound yellow flower buds.
In mid to late November, the flowers begin to open, showing a blush of bright orange. In addition to being beautiful, the flowers also are lightly fragrant. The flowers are retained through February. Seed pods will soon follow the flowers.
USES: Cascalote thrives in hot locations and even in areas with reflected heat and should be planted in full sun. It looks great as the focal point of a planting area or can be used to provide shade to other plants and also makes a great patio tree.
I once planted one in a high profile corner of a commercial building with Radiation Lantana planted beneath. Because of the overlapping bloom seasons of the Lantana and Cascalote, there was always color year-round.
You might ask the question, “This tree sounds terrific. Are there any drawbacks?” Well, it does have thorns. Now, generally, I am not a huge fan of plants with thorns. However, I do make an exception in this case because the thorns are an ornamental feature of the tree. When the branches are young, the thorns appear maroon.
As they age, the thorns appear larger, yet still ornamental adding great texture to the appearance of the tree. That being said, I just prune off the tip of the thorns so that I don’t get scratched and the trees still retain the beauty that the thorns add.
*There is a thornless variety called (Caesalpinia cacalaco ‘Smoothie’).
MAINTENANCE: Cascalote is relatively a low-maintenance tree. It can be grown as a single or multi-trunk tree. Prune in the summer removing dead and crossing branches. Weekly irrigation is required throughout the summer and once monthly in the winter. I do not fertilize my Cascalote, but a slow-release or organic fertilizer can be applied if desired.
The nest of a Yellow Finch in my Cascalote
Occasionally, some Cascalotes have been affected in the springtime by an insect known as a Psyllid which is a tiny insect that sucks on the leaves causing the tree to lose it’s leaves. Look closely at the leaves and you will see little white dots and shiny honeydew on the leaves. The best method to take care of this problem is to diagnose it quickly and spray off the leaves with a strong jet of water everyday to help prevent more leaf loss. For those not opposed to using pesticides, applying a systemic insecticide such as Merit, (available in Bayer Advanced Garden Tree & Shrub Insect Control), will take care of the problem. If your tree has lost all of it’s leaves, they will grow back, but will require one of the two treatments in order for the tree to retain them and recover.
I have had Cascalote trees in landscape areas that I managed become infected, but by using one of the two methods above; took care of the problem. I would not hesitate to continue to use Cascalotes in the landscape because of their overwhelming, positive attributes.
I highly recommend planting this tree in your landscape. The beauty of it’s leaves, flowers and bark plus it’s ability to thrive in hot, reflected sun makes it an asset in any desert landscape.
Beauty With Age….
Agave, Arizona, Succulent GardeningArtichoke Agave (Agave parryi ‘truncata’)
Our society usually doesn’t equate beauty with age. Instead, we celebrate youthful beauty and spend our money on trying to stay looking younger than our years. Thankfully, in the world of plants, maturity is something to be celebrated.
In the case of the agave, age equals beauty. A leaf of an agave plant can live for up to 15 years. The leaves are etched with beautiful patterns called ‘bud imprints.’ These delicate patterns decorate the leaves in numerous different ways depending on the species, as you can see in the photo of my Artichoke Agave (Agave parryi var. truncata) above.
Cow’s Horn Agave (Agave bovicornuta)
Along the sides of agave leaves are small thorns, called ‘teeth.’ Agave leaves stay in bud for 2 – 3 years. The teeth from the leaves imprint on the other leaves while they are held tightly within the bud, which is how their delicate patterns are formed.
Depending on the species, some bud imprints are more obvious, while others are more subtle.
The fibers from the leaves of the agave are used for weaving items such as bags and mats. The leaves are also used to feed cattle in areas of Mexico.
Agave ‘Durango Delight’ (Agave schidigera ‘Durango Delight’)
Some agave leaves have filaments along the edges. Most agave end with a sharp terminal spine, which should be taken into consideration when you decide where to plant them. You do not want them in high traffic areas where people can be pricked, (believe me, it hurts).
Mescal Ceniza (Agave colorata)
Because agave store water inside their leaves – their leaves are thick and succulent. Some of my favorite agave species are Artichoke Agave, Mescal Ceniza, and Victoria Agave.
Agave salmiana
I saw this agave (above) next to my gym, and I was very impressed by its teeth. They remind me of ‘claws.’
There are between 200 – 250 different species of agave, in all shapes, colors, and sizes. Some of my favorite features of agave are how beautiful they are with their leaf shapes and imprints. Secondly, their low-maintenance and drought-tolerance also make them a favorite in my garden.
Victoria Agave (Agave victoria-reginae)
Agave is amazing plants, and I am a huge fan. There is much more information to cover, which I will address in a future post. But, I will answer the most common question that I am asked about agave, “No, they do not live for 100 years.” You may be surprised at the real answer…
But, that is for a later post…
Winter Flowers, Fragrance and a Funny Name
Skeletons in the Desert
Agave, Arizona, Cactus/Succulents, desertUnveiling the Mysteries of Cactus Skeletons in the Desert
When you think of a desert, you likely picture vast stretches of sand, scorching sun, and towering cacti. These iconic desert plants, such as the saguaro cactus, play a crucial role in the ecosystem and are known for their remarkable resilience in arid environments. However, have you ever wondered what lies beneath their impressive exteriors? On a recent walk through the desert, I found these skeletons. We’ll delve into the fascinating world of cactus skeletons in the desert, shedding light on the woody remains known as “ribs” that provide crucial support to these giants.
Saguaro Cactus: A Desert Sentinel
The saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) is arguably the most recognizable symbol of the American Southwest’s deserts, particularly the Sonoran Desert. These imposing cacti can reach heights of up to 60 feet and have a distinctive columnar shape, often adorned with arms that reach out like welcoming gestures to the desert’s harsh conditions.
A Closer Look at Cactus Ribs
One of the most intriguing aspects of the saguaro cactus is its internal structure. Beneath its fleshy, water-storing exterior lies a hidden framework known as “ribs.” These ribs are not bones, of course, but they serve a similar purpose in providing structural support to the cactus.
The ribs of a saguaro cactus are typically woody and arranged in a vertical pattern within the plant’s body. They extend from the base of the cactus up into the arms, acting as a skeletal framework that gives the saguaro its characteristic shape and enables it to thrive in the harsh desert environment.
Why Do Cactus Skeletons Exist?
The presence of ribs or cactus skeletons in the desert serves several essential functions:
As I began my trek through the desert, I found beautiful specimens of cacti, plants and even some wildlife, but I also found a few skeletons as well…..
Mature Saguaro
This beautiful Saguaro was one of the first cacti that greeted me on my walk.
The first skeleton I came across was from a Saguaro cactus; part of it still standing upright. You can see where top part of the skeleton has fallen to the ground after the cactus plant has died.
Here it is close up. The decay is till present as you can see inside. The woody remains of the saguaro are called ‘ribs’ and are what supports the Saguaro cactus.
Above, is a photo of a Saguaro that had just fallen. You can easily see the ribs. Whenever a Saguaro cactus would fall in a landscape setting, we would move it to an out of the way area where it could decay. Then we would take the ribs and put them back into the landscape as a display. Saguaro ribs are considered a beautiful accent in the desert landscape and are prized by many.
Skeletons in the Desert can be Building Material
Native Americans used Saguaro ‘ribs’ to build roofs, walls and even furniture. Another use was that they would make long poles that they used to knock off the Saguaro fruit, which is edible.
Saguaro are not the only types of cacti that leave behind skeletons….
Teddy Bear Cholla (Opuntia bigelovii)
Teddy Bear Cholla (above), also has an interesting skeleton.
Above, is a photo of a segment of Teddy Bear Cholla that is in the process of decaying. You can see the woody skeleton starting to show.
Cholla skeletons are sometimes used as walking sticks. Artisans also use cholla skeletons to make southwestern forms of art.
Cactus Ribs are the Backbone to the Desert Cactus
Cactus skeletons, or ribs, are nature’s ingenious solution to help these iconic desert plants thrive in extreme conditions. They offer support, aid in water storage, and contribute to the cactus’s overall resilience. The next time you encounter a towering saguaro cactus in the desert, take a moment to appreciate the hidden framework that enables this remarkable plant to stand tall and flourish amidst the harsh desert landscape.
Please note that it is illegal to remove Saguaro and Cholla skeletons from the desert, unless you have permission from the owner. Specimens can sometimes be purchased at certain plant nurseries that specialize in cacti.
So do as I do…..enjoy them out in the desert and take lots of photos.
Want Some Grass ? Try This One….
Arizona garden, desert gardening, Landscape ProblemsOkay, you were probably thinking that I meant the ‘other’ type of grass. But the type of grass I am referring to cannot be smoked, (at least I don’t think it can). ‘Regal Mist’ (Muhlenbergia capillaris ‘Regal Mist’), is a beautiful ornamental grass to include in your landscape. It is low-maintenance, thrives almost anywhere and has stunning burgundy foliage in late summer and early fall.
USES: This Texas native looks best when planted in groups of at least 3, but I think groups of 5 or 7 are better. This ornamental grass grows to approximately 3 ft. High and wide. However, when flowering, add 1 – 2 ft. to their total height. They can be planted in full sun, areas with reflected heat and even in areas with partial shade.
This ornamental grass is tolerant of most soils. Regal Mist is a great choice for planting around pools, boulders and in front of walls. I have planted them around golf courses, and many people would ask me, “What is that plant? It is beautiful.” It is evergreen in areas with mild winters, but it is hardy to -10 degrees F (Zone 6). Frost will turn them light tan in color.
Regal Mist when not in flower
MAINTENANCE: You can hardly get more low-maintenance then this – prune back severely in the winter, almost to the ground, to remove old foliage and spent flowers. I do not fertilize Regal Mist, and they look just great. Although drought tolerant once established, supplemental water is necessary for them is needed for them to look their best and to flower. Self-seeding is not usually a problem when they are irrigated with drip-irrigation.
So, for those of you who are frequently asking me for a beautiful, low-maintenance plant – this is it. Include a few in your garden, and I promise you will have people asking you, “What is that beautiful grass?”
Skeletons in the Desert
“Scary” Pruning Practices and the Unfortunate Results
Arizona garden, DIY, Landscape No-NoSometimes when I am driving around, I see a poorly pruned tree or shrub, and I just cringe. It never ceases to amaze me the crazy ways that people take care of their plants. Whenever I see plants like this, I whip out my camera and quickly take a photo and then drive away before the homeowner asks what I am doing.
Butchered Palo Brea Tree
I mean if they catch me taking a photo, I can’t very well tell them, “I am taking pictures of the horrible way you prune your trees ?” Can I? Well, I probably could and should, but I am too chicken to confront people that way. I have no problem confronting people about their horrible pruning if they have asked me over to do a consult on their landscaping. I just like an invitation first before I tell people what they are doing wrong 😉
‘Topped’ Willow Acacia
Willow Acacia as it should look like.
Although, the primary purpose of this post is to entertain with photos of truly awful pruning disasters. I just have to step up on my “high horse” for just a minute regarding one type of pruning that is widespread. So please bear with me…
One of the most harmful types of pruning in regards to trees is called ‘topping’ the tree. It removes a lot of the top growth. This is usually done to shorten the tree and to preserve a view. The topping is NOT good for the tree and accelerates more top growth. The new branches are weakly attached and are much more liable to break, which can cause damage to what is underneath. Also, topping trees greatly stress the tree which can make them susceptible to insect and certain environmental factors. You can read more about topping trees here Tree Care.
Chilean Mesquite with a ‘kink’ in its trunk.
‘Poodle’ Olive Tree
Okay, the vast majority of trees should not be prune into round shapes.
Palo Brea tree pruned into a ‘ball.’
Palo Brea tree as it should look.
A Blue Palo Verde tree that lost its head.
A few years ago we suffered a severe micro-burst during the summertime at the community where I was working. The tree above snapped off in the high winds at a weak point in the trunk, which was weak due to improper pruning that was done a long time before the storm.
This is an Orange tree that has been pruned correctly.
The Citrus tree, above, has been pruned the right way, but I just had to include it in this post because it is so humorous. Look closely (you can click on the photo to enlarge)…. the homeowner tied CDs to the tree to scare off the birds from eating the fruit.
Many people prune their Citrus trees up so that they look more like a ‘typical’ tree. But what many people don’t know is that the lower branches produce the most fruit, the sweetest fruit and protects the trunk from sunburn.
Now for some truly awful examples of shrubs….remember the “cupcakes” from a previous post?
Little Leaf Cordia pruned into a ‘ball.’
In an earlier post, we covered the epidemic of pruning shrubs into the shapes of ‘cupcakes.’ Well, there is another epidemic in where people prune their shrubs into the shape of a ‘ball.’ We call this type of pruning, “Poodle-Pruning” because the shrubs resemble the ball shapes that poodles have when groomed. Either way, ‘cupcakes’ or ‘poodle,’ neither are good for your shrubs and take away from their beauty.
Feathery Cassia shrubs with large areas of dead growth.
One of the results of repeated shearing of your shrubs into specific shapes (cupcakes or balls), results in areas of dead growth. This is because sunlight cannot penetrate inside the shrub and it is constantly trying to replace the growth that is cut off constantly. There is a cure, which I will cover in a spring time post, which is when corrective pruning should be done.
Thunder Cloud Sage, unpruned
Now I don’t recommend going to the other extreme, above, and not pruning. Just do it correctly. So, if you have any ‘cupcakes’ or ‘poodles’ in your landscape, do not panic! I will cover the correct ways to prune many shrubs in the spring, which is the time that it should be done.
So, take care to prune properly, because you never know when I will come driving by with my camera….
Can You Over Water Your Plants in the Desert ?
Arizona garden, desert gardening, Drought Tolerant, Irrigation, Southwest gardenAs most would expect, water is considered a precious resource in the desert. But, did you know that there are more plant problems caused due to over-watering then under-watering?
Believe it or not, it is true. Most people are surprised to hear that up to 70% of residential water usage goes to watering trees and plants in your landscape. This high percentage is because many homeowners over-water their trees and plants.
Beavertail Prickly Pear (Opuntia basilaris) and Globe Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua
During college, I was fortunate to intern at the City of Mesa Water Conservation Office. The lessons that I learned there would last a lifetime. Nowadays, when I visit clients to help them with their landscapes, over 90% of the time I find that their irrigation schedule is incorrect – they water too lightly and too often.
This results in shallow roots and salt build-up in and around the root zone. (If you have seen a white substance around your plants, there is a good chance that it is the salts from the soil. And just an FYI – just like high amounts of salt are not good for us; they are not good for plants either).
Overwatering will weaken your plants, especially during the summer since their roots are close to the surface where they become hot and dry out much more quickly.
Trailing Yellow Dot (Wedelia trilobata), Rain Lily (Zephyranthes candida), Desert Spoon (Dasylirion wheeleri)
It’s important to note that plants need to be watered deeply, which does two things. First, it causes the roots to grow deeper into the soil, where it is cooler and stays moister longer. Secondly, it helps to reduce the salts in the soil and keeps them away from the root zone.
Your plants do not need the same amount of irrigation all year. Plants follow the weather- the hotter it is, the more water they need and when temperatures dip, the less that they need. For example, I water my garden once every 20 days in the winter, (excluding grass and annuals), and it is healthy and looks great. If you only take one thing from this article, then please let it be this; CHANGE THE WATERING SCHEDULE ON YOUR IRRIGATION CONTROLLER SEASONALLY.
Now, you are probably asking “How do I know what schedule my plants and lawn should be on?” Well, the folks at Water Use It Wisely is coming to your rescue. They have excellent information for the homeowner on the proper irrigation schedule for your plants. You can view it here: Landscape Watering Guide.
This guide was made for people who reside in the Phoenix metropolitan area. However, people who live in dry climates everywhere will find useful information regarding irrigation, and you can also contact your local extension office for locally published materials. **Most cities have information for their residents regarding watering schedules for their local climate. You can also contact your local cooperative extension office who often have this information as well.
If you find that you have been over-watering your plants, make sure that when you switch to the correct irrigation schedule, that you gradually change the schedule so that your plants have a chance to adjust.
Make sure you have the correct irrigation schedule which lets you have healthier plants, a lower water bill, and helps conserve water.
**For those of you not familiar with drip irrigation. The primary way the southwest waters their plants. Water is brought to the plant by a series of plastic pipes, tubing & emitters. The emitters drip water slowly to the root zone of the plant, reducing runoff and allowing the water to permeate deeply into the soil, which saves water.